Cutting fish into escalopes (thin slices)—as the famous Troisgros restaurant family in France does—facilitates fast cooking and delicate searing. Serve with sautéed veggies such as Soy-Glazed Vegetables. Use white pepper on the fish for an earthy flavor with less heat. Black pepper adds specks of color and a hotter taste.
How to Make It
To skin each fillet, set it skin side down on a cutting board, long edge facing you. Run your finger along one of the shorter edges to separate the flesh from the skin and form a small gap. Slide a boning or fillet knife in the gap. Angle the blade downward to cut the skin away from the flesh. When there's enough detached skin, hold it to keep the fillet in place. Saw and push the knife all the way through to the other edge to finish.
Using a long knife with a very sharp, thin blade, slice each fillet horizontally into 2 thin pieces. Each piece will be about 1/3 inch thick; one will resemble a speed bump. If the longer piece seems potentially unwieldy to cook, cut it in half crosswise. Repeat the skinning and cutting with remaining fish. You'll have 8 or 12 pieces total.
Put the fish on a plate, handsome side down. Season the back side with salt and pepper. Set aside.
Heat a large (11- to 12-inch) carbon steel skillet over medium. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons oil, swirling to coat the bottom. When oil shimmers, add half of the fish, handsome side down. Cook about 1 minute or until bottom half is opaque (cooked). Turn fish over; cook for about 30 seconds, until the pink rawness is only faintly visible. Transfer fish to a plate, and pour off excess oil. Repeat procedure with remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons oil and remaining fish. Serve with lemon wedges.